Sunday, March 10, 2019

Floating in Halong Bay

6 - 7 March

We drove north from Hanoi for about 3 hours towards the border with China to Halong City. The nearby Tuan Chau Port is the departure point for (a great many) boat cruises in the famous Halong Bay, including ours.

Our boat, or one a lot like it...
Halong Bay is best known for its many limestone karst islands (there are around 1,600 of them). It has twice been recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site. It is truly a spectacular place, and very recognisable from various films shot on location (although the 007 film featuring the karst islands was apparently shot amongst similar formations in China after Vietnam declined the privelege).
Halong Bay, a busy place.
As well as the scenery one can't help but notice the crowds and the vast number of tourist boats (one of which was ours of course!) Coming from little, remote, relatively pristine, New Zealand, one can easily be an environmental snob and criticise places that have become very touristy and somewhat polluted as a result. But it was good to see lots of initiatives under way at Halong Bay to reduce the future impact on the environment. (And important to remind myself too that NZ is far from perfect in this regard!)

Titov Island in Halong Bay is famous for its sandy beach and viewing platform at the top of the island up 300 steps from the beach. One of us climbed up for a look. It was a bit of an effort in the heat but was rewarded with fantastic views. Another of us stayed on the beach and was entertained by watching some of the Chinese visitors posing on the beach, and then interacting and posing with them... (BTW - Titov was a Russian astronaut who visited Vietnam with Ho Chi Minh on his return from 30 years overseas in 1962, and had the island named after him.)

Titov Island, with sandy beach and viewing platform.

This way upwards.
Older ladies posing on the beach at Titov Island.
Cool dude on beach, not needing to pose as he has just climbed to the top of the island.
We spent a night floating in the bay, amongst the islands and the other boats. 


On board we learned important skills like how to make the perfect spring roll (roll, roll, fold, fold, roll, roll, roll, if you were wondering), how to fish for squid, and how to do early morning tai chi on the top deck. Despite obvious talent at all of these we have decided against making a career change.

Many of the islands are "hollow", containing lakes and cave systems. One of the most well known and largest caves is Hang Dau Go (Wooden stakes cave) with three large chambers that can be explored. 
Inside Hang Dau Go
Hang Luon (Luon Cave) is a 60m long cave through which small boats can access a "salt water lake" inside one of the islands. There be monkeys on the island too.

Small boats entering Hang Luon.

The lake reached after passing through Hang Luon.

Wild monkey feasting on fruit provided by adoring tourists.

Stayed on cruise boat, 1 night.

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