Siem Reap, really hot now!

21 - 22 March

Now for some really warm weather! 

We flew into Siem Reap on Angkor Air, which is just a short 45 minute hop from Phnom Penh by air but a 6 hour journey by road. Siem Reap is Cambodia's second city, and the "gateway" to Angkor Wat. Angor Wat is one of about 800 temple sites in this area, out of 1,000 or more in Cambodia as a whole. We visited 4, which was enough for a couple of days touristing. Each was quite amazing in it's own right, but as we know, "temple overload" is a thing.

The sites date from the time of the Khmer empire (about 9th to 15th centuries). When the empire fell the sites were abandoned and reclaimed by the jungle, remaining largely unknown (at least to Europeans) until the 20th century. Everyone left the area due to (as well as the fall of the empire), the area becoming too dry to support the large population, and the increasing importance of trade (which led to Phnom Penh, with its access to the Mekong river and easy water transport, being established).

Access to the temple sites for the likes of us soft tourists has only been available for about 20 years. The area was an active civil war zone after the Khmer Rouge were removed from power in 1979 and all the way through to the late 1990's. Some of the sites have bullet holes as evidence of the fighting.

The ancient Khmers felt the need for each new ruler to build a new temple larger than the previous one, which led to the proliferation of sites and the enormous scale of some.

Our first temple visit was during the hottest part of the day with the temperature reaching 41 degrees. Extremely hot and humid by our standards! Some of us suffered a bit from the heat and had to take the easy option of travelling by tuk tuk around the Angkor Wat perimeter while others climbed through the innards. Janet was pretty woozy and couldn't think or walk straight due to the heat, so had to take the easy option.

On the day of our second temple visit the temperature was a relatively mild 38. As it was relatively "cool", after seeing the temples we hired a tuk tuk and took a tour around the city. We stopped off at a few shops that Janet had identified in advance and saw a great selection of Cambodian inspired crafts, all locally made. It wasn't just window shopping either, the suitcases got heavier as a result! The best shopping spot we found was Kandal Village in Hup Guan Street, and we'd definitely go back there for a better look next time (if there is one!)

Ever wondered how to make rice noodles the traditional way? They can show you how at Pradak village. We got a demonstration from a local noodle making family, and then a tasting (accompanied by a green curry). Yum! The noodle making process needs lots of family members - primarily Mum who knows all about it, plus ideally lots of daughters to help.

First soak your rice till slightly fermented and then pound into a paste. 

Use 2 or 3 daughters to work the pounding machine while Mum supervises the business end.

Press the paste through a sieve to form noodles which then drop into boiling water. 

Use 1 or more daughters to apply pressure to the press (one daughter shown here).

Take the cooked noodles out to drain. Use plastic gloves for hygiene when demonstrating to tourists.

Demonstration tourist sampling noodles with green curry.

The last event of the trip was a traditional Aspara dance performance over dinner. The dancers were incredibly skilled, the costumes spectacular, and the dancing very elaborate and graceful. We learned a little beforehand about how the dancers train and the meanings of the hand and finger positions used in the dances, which made the performance more interesting. Dancers need to start young so they can develop the incredible flexibility in their fingers by stretching every day. Also they apparently need to have double jointed elbows - sounds very uncomfortable!. So I think we've left our Cambodian dance careers a bit late.  Don't be fooled by the photo of us with the dancers, it's just a photo, we didn't have a go and absolutely would have zero talent for it!

Siem Reap was sadly our last stop so bringing the trip to an end. Now have to face the packing up chore followed by the long, long plane ride home...



Temple briefing follows:

Angkor Wat is the largest and most famous temple, dating from the 12th century. Large means truly huge - the site is over 160 hectares. The stone was brought from far away using slave and animal labour, and carved on site. Originally it was surrounded by a water filled moat, but today the area is much drier and only some ponds remain. The temple started off as a Hindu one, and then transformed later to a Buddhist one.

(Angkor was the capital city of the Khmer empire. Wat means temple in the Khmer language. Hence Angkor Wat.)

The 5 towers of Angkor Wat, reflected in the pool.

Bayon is a much smaller temple and sometimes known as the "temple of faces" for its magnificent carved Buddha faces. While visiting Bayon we came across a bold monkey who has learned to drink from water bottles so when thirsty just approaches a tourist for a drink.

Bayon temple.

Buddha face, smiling?

Cheeky monkey!

Banteay Srey temple is built from pink sandstone and known as the Citadel of Women. It has some of the most beautiful carvings in Angkor. The pink stone has survived the passage of time well and it's remarkable to see the carving details still clear today after 1,000 years or more.

Pink sandstone at Banteay Srey.

Civil war bullet holes.

 

Last was Ta Phrom, aka the "Tomb Raider Temple", made famous by the Angelina Jolie Tomb Raider movies filmed there. The trees growing through and around the stones were as shown on screen and are amazing. This temple has been left on purpose in its jungle ravaged state with no restorations and only removal of enough trees and scrub to allow for access. 

Stayed at Park Hyatt Siem Reap, 2 nights.

Mekong River, part 3

19 - 20 March

Further north away from Phnom Penh the Mekong enters more remote areas, and we were able to visit some communities that rarely see foreign visitors.

We visited Wat Hanchey, an 8th century Buddhist temple where there is a community of monks (the saffron robed ones) numbering about 100. The local practice is for all boys to enter the priest hood for a period, be it 1 week, 1 year, or much longer. We watched a traditional Buddhist water ceremony and then explored the temple complex. Several of the local kids joined us, tagging along like shadows, and practicing their english words. Apparently their main motivation is an expectation to get money from the strange visitors. They didn't get any from us as we were advised that doing so just encourages a cycle of begging when there are more constructive ways to contribute to the communities.

Some steps up to the temple complex, 303 to be exact, and about 35 degrees of warm.

A view from the top.

The main temple.

Saffron robed monks, aged 15 and 21, but already with 7 years experience between them.

Buddhas in the temple.

Next was a visit to Angkar Ban, a reasonably prosperous village with electricity (usually, but not when we were there), piped water, and a septic system. Not everywhere has such luxuries. The main reason for coming here was to visit a school where english classes are run by a local university graduate who comes back to his home village to teach english in an effort to provide opportunities to the village children beyond the traditional farming and fishing.

The learning is all by rote. The children are amazingly enthusiastic and energetic. We demonstrated how to speak english properly (ie with a Kiwi accent) but didn't have time to make sure they all got it! Left behind a selection of books and school supplies to help expand their school resources. It was great to be able to contribute in some small way, and to have an excuse to meet and talk to the children. There were about 65 in the class ranging in age from about 9 to 14 years.

No jetties at Angkar Ban, so climbed up the bank from river level to village level, about 10m vertically. 

In the wet season the river rises to village level and sometimes further.

Village matriarch at Angkar Ban. 81 years old and with a great many children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren!

Typical house. The stilts provide a shaded breezy area underneath, and keep the house out of the floods.

The school. My girl was 12 years old. 

The school again - ESOL at its most hands on.

Our final Mekong River visit was to Kampong Luong, a village known for silversmithing. We disembarked at Kampong Tralach village. I'd hoped to catch a train to the silversmith village but there wasn't one (of course) so we travelled by ox cart. It was an interesting experience but I've decided that I prefer trains given a choice.

Silver working is a traditional Cambodian skill. In the past the sliver was obtained locally but nowadays some of it is imported from Thailand and Vietnam. The skills are passed down from old to young. Many of the skilled artisans were lost in the Khmer Rouge years, but the few left are now passing the skills on to the new generation.

Marshalling the ox cart fleet.

All aboard. Carts are built for two.

Our driver did a great job and got us there on time.

Silver working.

Kampong Luong village from the river.

Floating fishing huts nearby.

The Killing Fields

18 March

One can't visit Cambodia without reflecting on the genocide during the Pol Pot regime when the Khmer Rouge attempted a radical reform to create a  communist classless peasant society. The reform included removal of the educated middle class by "re education" which for most meant execution. Along with brutal forced work regimes the result was a reduction in the population of around 2 million out of a total of about 8 million at the time. This included those who escaped from Cambodia to other countries so no one really knows how many were killed by the Khmer Rouge - somewhere between 1.7 and 2 million we were told. This took place between 1975 and 1979. In 1979 a Vietnamese invasion threw Pol Pot out of Phnom Penh, although the Khmer Rouge continued to exist in remote areas and violence continued until the late 1990's.

Read a survivors harrowing first hand account in "Survival in the Killing Fields" by Haing Ngor. 

We visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in downtown Phnom Penh, once a high school, then Security Prison S21 an interrogation and torture centre for the Khmer Rouge, and now a museum commemorating the horror of it all. An estimated 20,000 people passed through S21 where they were forced to "confess" and then executed or shipped off for execution. We met Chum Mey, one of the few who survived being incarcerated in S21. He comes to the museum often to tell his story to help make sure the atrocities and those who suffered are not forgotten. He was a  mechanic and able to fix his captors typewriters hence was allowed to live. Sadly, he could not save his wife and son who were executed in front of him. 

S21 regulations.

The high schools gymnastics frame, converted for torturing prisoners.

Chum Mey, a survivor of S21.

High school converted to prison.

With Chum Mey.

To follow that grim experience we went to Cheung Ek, a village 15 km or so outside of Phnom Penh which had been the site of one of the mass graves used by the Khmer Rouge. Today it is a commemorative site with confronting reminders like a stupa (monument) containing the remains of nearly 9,000 people which have been exhumed. It's estimated that about 17,000 in total were killed and buried here. As well there is a walkway amongst the grave sites where you can see remains such as scraps of clothing and small bones which wash to the surface each rainy season. It definitely not a polished memorial such as we might see in western countries. It is basic and confronting, but at least it's there. Not long ago it was almost closed down as the Cambodian government couldn't afford to keep it going. Fortunately some private and international funders stepped in to help. And Cheung Ek is just one of an estimated 800 Khmer Rouge mass graves scattered around Cambodia.

Mass grave.

The stupa, containing skulls and remains of about 9,000 people.

Mekong River part 2, Phnom Penh

16 -17 March

We have all been trying to process the terrible news from NZ about the Christchurch mosque shootings. It seems weird being so far away and therefore so removed and helpless. Not that we could have done anything at home. It is such a terrible thing and so unexpected in NZ. We held a brief reflection and moment of silence to mark the event and send thoughts and prayers home to NZ. It was encouraging to get support from the other nationalities here, US and Australian, as well as the locals.

Another sampan ride this morning to the town of Chau Doc. On the way we passed houses and villages built on the water (ie floating!) and passed along a canal where we could see at close hand the reality of life for a great many in this area. It really is an eye opener to see this and the innovative ways people find to get by.

Houses propped over the canal.

Floating house.

Floating village.

We arrived at Chau Doc and walked through the super crowded local market. Some of the wares are aimed at those on their way to the nearby Sam Mountain religious site where people come to make offerings to a local idol. There is a museum-like room displaying a range of the more expensive offerings that have been made in the past - gold, jewels, fine clothes. Apparently the typical practice is to make the offering after the wishes have been granted, so the generous offerings represent some very substantial good outcomes. The crowds were very "crowdy" especially near the idol display, and apparently this is a well known location for pick pocketing. 

Dried fish and other yummies at the Chau Doc market.

Crowds crowding towards the idol's room.

Later we visited the village Long Khanh A which is known for weaving. We visited a family that weaves cotton cloth and make scarves and hats. They were expecting us and had set up a shop and weaving demo to make the most of the opportunity!

Pop up shop at weavers house.

Hand loom.

While in Long Khanh A we were privileged to meet an ex Viet Cong soldier and visit his house. His name is Mr Sau Vien and he graciously welcomed our group into his home. He had been a medic in the war, and had been wounded a number of times. We had several veterans in our group including an ex US army medic who had served two tours in Vietnam. It was awesome to see them posing for photos together and comparing memories. And a credit to both that they had been able to put the wartime horrors behind them and move on.

(Apparently his name refers to "number six" as he is the fifth son. Fathers are always "number one" with children following from there. Not sure about the numbering for mothers.)

A large picture of Ho Chi Minh with Lenin and Marx in pride of place at the front of Mr Sau's house.

Mr Sau wearing his service medals, with Janet.

And with Mrs Sau.

Mr Sau's house in Long Khanh A village.

That night we continued up river and crossed the border into Cambodia, arriving in Phnom Penh late at night. Berthing at Phnom Penh required a small diversion away from the Mekong into the Tonle Sap river. This river drains from the Tonle Sap lake which is the largest freshwater lake in south east Asia. It acts somewhat like a natural reservoir regulating the flows in the Mekong downstream. The lake covers about 2,500 sq km at the end of the dry season but expands to up to 16,000 sq km after the monsoons with the water then gradually released back into the river system.

Phnom Penh is our first proper taste of Cambodia which is quite different to Vietnam - new language, new non roman script, new culture... 

Cambodia is an elected monarchy which is pretty unusual. Monarchs are elected (by a 9 member council) for life from the eligible members of a couple of "royal families". The monarch seems similar to the NZ Governor General in that is a largely symbolic role with the actual running of the country in the hands of an elected government. But the monarch does have a really cool palace which we visited. Also of note is the silver pagoda, so named because it has about 5 tonnes of silver tiles on the floor. It also has other amazing and valuable treasures notably the emerald buddha (actually made from Baccarat crystal) and a person size gold buddha inlaid with 9,584 diamonds (so we're told, didn't actually count them.)

The Royal Palace.

Nearby was a museum of Khmer artefacts, many dating from the Khmer empire approx 1000 - 1500 AD. Amazing sculptures, with lots unfortunately having been damaged during the various conflicts since and missing limbs or heads. It was hard to fully appreciate the work with very little english signage and a passionate guide but with limited english communication.

Did I mention that it's really hot here? Mid to high 30's and super humid. The Royal Palace visit required knees and shoulders covered so had to bring out the long pants and suffer the heat even more. Our transport around the town was by cyclo similar to Hanoi, getting up close and personal with the city and the other traffic on the road. In the afternoon some of us went over the the central market for some shopping. I walked back to the boat, not far, but good to see some real Phnom Penh along the way and to get a proper sweat going.

Lady takes a cyclo.

Cyclo fleet.

The central market. Buying a kilo of fresh peppercorns - red, black, white - for $15USD.

Downtown Phnom Penh scene, with spectacular overhead wires.

In the evening we were treated to a traditional Cambodian dance performance by children from a local orphanage. The orphanage is supported in part by the company owning the cruise boat. The performers ranged in age from 4 to 15.

The monkey dance.

A more classical dance.Note the hands. 

The dancer told us later that she was 12 years old and her ambition was to be a make up artist.

Staying on the boat for 6 nights, the Avalon SiemReap!