Vietnam & Cambodia March 2019: Mekong River part 2, Phnom Penh

16 -17 March

We have all been trying to process the terrible news from NZ about the Christchurch mosque shootings. It seems weird being so far away and therefore so removed and helpless. Not that we could have done anything at home. It is such a terrible thing and so unexpected in NZ. We held a brief reflection and moment of silence to mark the event and send thoughts and prayers home to NZ. It was encouraging to get support from the other nationalities here, US and Australian, as well as the locals.
Another sampan ride this morning to the town of Chau Doc. On the way we passed houses and villages built on the water (ie floating!) and passed along a canal where we could see at close hand the reality of life for a great many in this area. It really is an eye opener to see this and the innovative ways people find to get by.

Houses propped over the canal.

Floating house.

Floating village.

We arrived at Chau Doc and walked through the super crowded local market. Some of the wares are aimed at those on their way to the nearby Sam Mountain religious site where people come to make offerings to a local idol. There is a museum-like room displaying a range of the more expensive offerings that have been made in the past - gold, jewels, fine clothes. Apparently the typical practice is to make the offering after the wishes have been granted, so the generous offerings represent some very substantial good outcomes. The crowds were very "crowdy" especially near the idol display, and apparently this is a well known location for pick pocketing.

Dried fish and other yummies at the Chau Doc market.

Crowds crowding towards the idol's room.

Later we visited the village Long Khanh A which is known for weaving. We visited a family that weaves cotton cloth and make scarves and hats. They were expecting us and had set up a shop and weaving demo to make the most of the opportunity!

Pop up shop at weavers house.

Hand loom.

While in Long Khanh A we were privileged to meet an ex Viet Cong soldier and visit his house. His name is Mr Sau Vien and he graciously welcomed our group into his home. He had been a medic in the war, and had been wounded a number of times. We had several veterans in our group including an ex US army medic who had served two tours in Vietnam. It was awesome to see them posing for photos together and comparing memories. And a credit to both that they had been able to put the wartime horrors behind them and move on.

(Apparently his name refers to "number six" as he is the fifth son. Fathers are always "number one" with children following from there. Not sure about the numbering for mothers.)

A large picture of Ho Chi Minh with Lenin and Marx in pride of place at the front of Mr Sau's house.

Mr Sau wearing his service medals, with Janet.

And with Mrs Sau.

Mr Sau's house in Long Khanh A village.

That night we continued up river and crossed the border into Cambodia, arriving in Phnom Penh late at night. Berthing at Phnom Penh required a small diversion away from the Mekong into the Tonle Sap river. This river drains from the Tonle Sap lake which is the largest freshwater lake in south east Asia. It acts somewhat like a natural reservoir regulating the flows in the Mekong downstream. The lake covers about 2,500 sq km at the end of the dry season but expands to up to 16,000 sq km after the monsoons with the water then gradually released back into the river system.

Phnom Penh is our first proper taste of Cambodia which is quite different to Vietnam - new language, new non roman script, new culture...

Cambodia is an elected monarchy which is pretty unusual. Monarchs are elected (by a 9 member council) for life from the eligible members of a couple of "royal families". The monarch seems similar to the NZ Governor General in that is a largely symbolic role with the actual running of the country in the hands of an elected government. But the monarch does have a really cool palace which we visited. Also of note is the silver pagoda, so named because it has about 5 tonnes of silver tiles on the floor. It also has other amazing and valuable treasures notably the emerald buddha (actually made from Baccarat crystal) and a person size gold buddha inlaid with 9,584 diamonds (so we're told, didn't actually count them.)

The Royal Palace.

Nearby was a museum of Khmer artefacts, many dating from the Khmer empire approx 1000 - 1500 AD. Amazing sculptures, with lots unfortunately having been damaged during the various conflicts since and missing limbs or heads. It was hard to fully appreciate the work with very little english signage and a passionate guide but with limited english communication.

Did I mention that it's really hot here? Mid to high 30's and super humid. The Royal Palace visit required knees and shoulders covered so had to bring out the long pants and suffer the heat even more. Our transport around the town was by cyclo similar to Hanoi, getting up close and personal with the city and the other traffic on the road. In the afternoon some of us went over the the central market for some shopping. I walked back to the boat, not far, but good to see some real Phnom Penh along the way and to get a proper sweat going.

Lady takes a cyclo.

Cyclo fleet.

The central market. Buying a kilo of fresh peppercorns - red, black, white - for $15USD.

Downtown Phnom Penh scene, with spectacular overhead wires.

In the evening we were treated to a traditional Cambodian dance performance by children from a local orphanage. The orphanage is supported in part by the company owning the cruise boat. The performers ranged in age from 4 to 15.