Vietnam & Cambodia March 2019: Mekong River, part 3

19 - 20 March

Further north away from Phnom Penh the Mekong enters more remote areas, and we were able to visit some communities that rarely see foreign visitors.

We visited Wat Hanchey, an 8th century Buddhist temple where there is a community of monks (the saffron robed ones) numbering about 100. The local practice is for all boys to enter the priest hood for a period, be it 1 week, 1 year, or much longer. We watched a traditional Buddhist water ceremony and then explored the temple complex. Several of the local kids joined us, tagging along like shadows, and practicing their english words. Apparently their main motivation is an expectation to get money from the strange visitors. They didn't get any from us as we were advised that doing so just encourages a cycle of begging when there are more constructive ways to contribute to the communities.

Some steps up to the temple complex, 303 to be exact, and about 35 degrees of warm.

A view from the top.

The main temple.

Saffron robed monks, aged 15 and 21, but already with 7 years experience between them.

Buddhas in the temple.

Next was a visit to Angkar Ban, a reasonably prosperous village with electricity (usually, but not when we were there), piped water, and a septic system. Not everywhere has such luxuries. The main reason for coming here was to visit a school where english classes are run by a local university graduate who comes back to his home village to teach english in an effort to provide opportunities to the village children beyond the traditional farming and fishing.

The learning is all by rote. The children are amazingly enthusiastic and energetic. We demonstrated how to speak english properly (ie with a Kiwi accent) but didn't have time to make sure they all got it! Left behind a selection of books and school supplies to help expand their school resources. It was great to be able to contribute in some small way, and to have an excuse to meet and talk to the children. There were about 65 in the class ranging in age from about 9 to 14 years.

No jetties at Angkar Ban, so climbed up the bank from river level to village level, about 10m vertically.

In the wet season the river rises to village level and sometimes further.

Village matriarch at Angkar Ban. 81 years old and with a great many children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren!

Typical house. The stilts provide a shaded breezy area underneath, and keep the house out of the floods.

The school. My girl was 12 years old.

The school again - ESOL at its most hands on.

Our final Mekong River visit was to Kampong Luong, a village known for silversmithing. We disembarked at Kampong Tralach village. I'd hoped to catch a train to the silversmith village but there wasn't one (of course) so we travelled by ox cart. It was an interesting experience but I've decided that I prefer trains given a choice.

Silver working is a traditional Cambodian skill. In the past the sliver was obtained locally but nowadays some of it is imported from Thailand and Vietnam. The skills are passed down from old to young. Many of the skilled artisans were lost in the Khmer Rouge years, but the few left are now passing the skills on to the new generation.